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Thursday, April 15 - Flight from San Jose, via Los Angeles, to Tucson, Arizona Got ourselves to the airport via the #26 bus, Light Rail, and free shuttle from the Metro stop. We allowed plenty of time, so we got "A" boarding passes on Southwest. (It took us 20 minutes to get through security, but we were done by 11:30.) We were the first on the airplane, after the pre-boarding, so Gary got his window seat on our 1:05 pm flight to Tucson, via LA. There was a seriously wailing child on the flight to LA. Both flights completely full. $425.80 total for the two of us. Arrived Tucson at 4 PM, and dragged our suitcases over to the Alamo counter, where we were told we'd need to leave a local phone number or cell phone number, lest we run off with the car. The guy let us go, but I guess G and I are in the minority in being so unreachable these days. We drove by the bus station, along Pennington and
Congress streets, by a big, dead gopher snake, and then up
Sentinel Hill (the big "A") looking east over the sprawl of
Tucson, the Saguaro National.Park in the far distance.
We ate dinner in Downtown Tucson on the porch of a Middle Eastern place near 4th Ave where a group of men were talking in Arabic. We checked into a Comfort Inn where we watched the Apprentice finale on TV. The night was loud because of traffic and people checking in late. My earplugs insulated me pretty well, but Gary's didn't.
Friday, April 16 - Canyon Ranch and Saguaro East, drive to Silver City Walked over to b'fast at the Waffle House, then walked by some 4th Ave shops. Stopped at Native Seeds Search store (joined it), talked to a Hopi woman who sells blue corn there, and bought some food and stuff to take back. Drove along River Road eastward over rolly landscape, at the foot of the Coronado national forest. Checked out the gates of Canyon Ranch. Impressions: too much sun! Dry, hot air. Drove through
Saguaro National Forest, through ocitillo blooming red,
yellow flowering cacti, and of course the uplifted arms of
the saguaro here in the Sonoran desert. A young coyote
seemed unafraid of our car and lingered by the road as we
drove the loop. We took turns driving east on 10 to Silver City. Stopped in Willcox for an excellent fajita meal at a family-run RV park. Drove in to "Silver" via Lordsburg around dark. (Arizona doesn't observe daylight savings time, but NM does, so we had to set our watches forward an hour.) My impression driving in over 90 was of a hardscrabble land, littered with trailers and unchecked urban sprawl. The landscape was rolling and though covered with some low trees, not truly forested. The soil appeared rocky and harsh. We drove through the downtown area (Bullard Street) and came to rest on unlovely Silver Heights Blvd. at the Comfort Inn. (Working those rapid reward points.) Children were shrieking and splashing in the pool near the lobby and the air was heavy with the smell of chlorine. Watched comedy TV: number one comic was voted to be Richard Pryor by his fellow comics. Also in the top 10 or so: Chris Rock, Bill Cosby, Rosanne, Ellen DeGeneres, Lenny Bruce, David Letterman, Woody Allen, Eddie Murphy, Steve Martin, Rodney Dangerfield, Steven Wright. I had odd dreams that night of a cat ? in bed next to me, me trying to grab its face. It was like Indian spirits were angry we were there. Gary later had a good explanation: the altitude was affecting us (it's almost 6000').
Sat., April 17 - Chino copper mine, Gila Cliff Dwellings, Downtown Silver City
Overlooking the active pit mine is the Kneeling Nun rock formation (not pictured) which has a history of it's own and can be seen for miles. Fine German food at Spirit Lodge; talked to backpacker from Wisconsin Saw two snakes on the road and one reported on the trail hike up to Gila Cliff Dwelling.
On way back, drove down dirt road by little airstrip in Gila and through Gila Hot Springs Looked down at later through binocs. Criss-crossed the Continental Divide. A little carsick driving down through Pinos Altos, hurrying back to town. This is wooded mountain territory (the Mimbres mountains?). In town we saw some men in Western garb near the model of the house of Billy the Kid at the visitor center. Coffee break at the Rejuvenation café, talked to Dru Ruebush and bought earrings from his wife Gina to give to Arlene as thanks for taking care of Marleigh. Window shopped and took photos. Albertsons for milk, oj, cereal, seltzer water, vegetarian TV dinners. Watched Sopranos episode and Solaris movie on TV, stayed up late.
Sunday, April 18 -Western New Mexico University, City of Rocks, Faywood Hotsprings Awoke about 6:30, had breakfast downstairs and called my parents. WNMU museum (Mimbres pottery and other artifacts), took photos of 2 alumni women (class of 67) who had come back to participate in the Great Race. Drove downtown for breakfast at Diane's (Gary) and a spinach salad and (remarkably for both Arizona and NM) excellent iced tea, then walked back up to the Univ to wait by the big puddle for the go-carts to come through.
Stopped by the Big Ditch (where town had been washed out back in 1880's in one night's flooding) Spotted a possible rental property near the university (Western). Drove south on 180 past the sleepy Grant Co airport (just one bldg, but a paved tarmac - served by Mesa Airlines). Along the way passed through Hurley (did we?) where the smelters release pollution into the air during the night. Air appeared clear, however, throughout Silver City and the whole area. Further to the east was the town where they grow those great green chilis: Hatch. Gotta find out more about those chilis.
Explored City of Rocks State Park. Saw jackrabbits. Walked partway down a trail through the chapparal. Admired the windmill pumping water. Drove to overlook where Gary espied a blimp over by Deming - somewhere to the south. Cooke's peak in the distance as well. Stopped at Faywood Hot Springs. $10 each for an hour in a private tub - that hour went fast. A little yellow cat perched on the dutch door when we walked in. Unneutered. (Hey, it's the west.) Sundown.
Missed dinner at Spaghetti Western; the town was rolled up. But Gary had Italian food on his mind, so we stopped at Domino's Pizza and ordered an excellent thin crust, half Hawaiian/half pepperoni, mushroom and green chili medium pizza. The friendly manager, Dan, who had written 10 pages of his new screenplay that day and had 12 in the bag. The dead pigeon out front and the huge beetle stalking it. Didn't daunt us gobbling the pizza back in our room. Monday, April 19 - Leave Silver City for Bowie, hike Fort Bowie, onward to Tombstone Ate cereal (trying to get rid of our milk) and checked out of Comfort Inn ($49/night). Stopped at Hacienda Realty to inquire about the house we'd seen. Talked with Nancy Lamb. Drove up Cottage Road, but turned around - no hiking there. Continued on to Bowie (fast becoming a ghost town itself), mailed postcard to my parents, bought some pecan dark chocolate candy. They have vineyards and 300 some acres of pecan groves there. Also English walnuts. Continued on to Ft Bowie down a 12 mile road. Parked and walked the 1 1/2 miles in.
Visited museum. Helen's Dome a landmark. Drove on through St. David (green valley) to Tombstone. Spent night at the Trail Rider's Inn in Tombstone. Had dinner at Top of the Hill (more good-but-bad-for-you Mexican food). Our waiter had a cowboy hat and an eye patch. G and I asked him about the map on the wall behind us, whether we were looking at Willcox Playa. He verified it and G announces "You have a good eye!" G falls asleep at 10:30 and I read through the copious literature we've collected until around midnight, trying to sort it into manageable piles. Tuesday, April 20 - Tombstone to Tucson, then return to California
We walk around town, stop in the Tombstone Epitaph office and then walk across the street to talk to a sharp-eyed older guy about some town history. G has a cuppa joe at the Internet café and we talk to the gay guys who own it (no jobs - people tolerant there). I buy a bottle of Tombstone hot sauce for Barb. Very touristy town. We drive on back to Tucson via Kartchner Cavern for our 4:30 flight, spotting the blimp yet again. We just have time to go out toward the Desert Museum and stop for a last walk through the saguaros west of Tucson. (We can see the museum further west and below us from out vantage point.)
Talk to a nice "Silver" native while waiting in the "B" line at the airport. A possible contact for local real estate purchases. We come home safely, Barb picking us up at the airport. It's been a good day - "any day above ground is a good day," as the waiter in the German restaurant would say. Indeed, much of the trip, we have peered from the heights like eagles overlooking the vast landscape below.
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Stopped
at 
Man,
the sun really means business here. My eyes are dry and
bloodshot and my skin is parched.
